In the wake of Abel Tasman: Part 1 :Sabah, the gateway to jungle, sailing & diving. Jungle & cities April/ May 2013

Sabah, part 1 jungle & cities April 2013

Joining the sailing ketch “Infinity” was still two weeks away and flying to the east coast of Sabah was too expensive, so why not a little discovery tour of Sabah, starting on the west coast in Kota Kinabalu and travel overland by bus to the east coast to Semporna, where we join the boat.

Why go to Sabah? Because it is one of the most stunning places on earth. A land of green jungle, craggy blue mountains and shocking blue oceans. We really had to study Google earth to figure out where Sabah is. It is the north of the island Borneo and is part of Malaysia.

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Kota Kinabalu harbour

We flew to Kota Kinabalu, every calls it KK, an Asian messy city where the main smell is from sewage, mixed with spicy whiffs from all the food stalls. Our first encounter with non organised city life. For the KK citizens; the street is their shop, home and restaurant.

Fish drying in the sun

Textile production on the street

Durian, verry smelly fruit

After we had shaken off the clean and crisp memories of Singapore,

we were ready to soak up the markets in KK; fish market with dried and salted fish, fruit and veggie market and the fashion industry on the street. A harbour city with fantastic seafood, prepared to your desire.

You like it or not !

The $ 100,- fake version

Of course everything is cheap. A 4 star hotel for € 35, - (with indeed a bed with nice fluffy mattress, air co and clean) a dinner on the street for € 5, - and even a Galaxy III phone for € 100, - Billy was all flabbergasted by the idea and did an evening intensive study on the internet to recognise the fake ones and of course the street vendors sell fake. Later he found a “real” one in a shopping centre for half the European price. A must have!

But it is also the land of the head hunters, where the brave warriors would take the heads of their enemies and the skulls were strung up on the longhouse. A longhouse with many heads was feared and respected by neighbourhood clans. We went to Monsopiad to see the evidence of one of the last warriors.

Traditional pipe blowing

As history tells, 300 years ago the warrior named Monsopiad, was defended his village. So great was his power that no enemy could match him. Throughout his life, Monsopiad took 42 skulls as proof of his power. The skulls and the longhouse are looked after by his descendents. They try to keep the Kadazan culture alive and to reassemble and document the old legends and traditions for future generations.

And the swords

The 42 skulls

Traditional dancing

Tourist picture 1

Travelling means also being a little adventuress. We go rafting on the Padas River, a class III/IV river with lots of rapids, whirlpools and fast running (brown) water. A little nervous we join the taxi bus at 6 in the morning, finding 3 other adventurers still half asleep. Fit agile youngsters who climbed the Mt Kinabalu the days before. No way back so better enjoy the journey and stay relaxed. After 2 hours driving we change to an old diesel train in Beaufort.

An experience in itself, travelling on an antique train with the locals and their kids, chickens, vegetables and any other stuff they bought at the market. We travel through the country side, where life seems very laid back and simple. The train is the only connection for these people, because there are no roads.

We travel along
the Padas River
which seems to
become more and more wild getting closer to our destination.
Seeing a couple of Chinese girls freaking out at watching the river, made me thinking “I can do this, as a sailor and rower, it shouldn’t be a problem”.

Geared up with life jackets and helmets and an experienced guide, we push the rubber boat in the water. The only thing we have to do is peddle and keep the boat in balance. No time to think water everywhere and just paddle and survive. A fantastic experience and definitely it boosted my adrenaline level.

We leave Kota Kinabalu by bus, bringing us in 6 hours to Sipilok, the eastern side of Sabah and close to Sandakan. It is a nice travel crossing the area of Mount Kinabalu , with the high mountain peaks and the endless palm oil fields in the east. Busses are perfect, with food & beverage stops on the way. The only thing you must know is to bring a jacket and hat because the air co is on full blast and icy cold.

Mount Kinabalu

Our stay in the Sipilok jungle resort is more than pleasant. The jungle is in your backyard and an impressive tropical garden surrounds the rooms. All created 20 years ago by the Chinese owner, who although he is retired, is still watching his business every day from his corner table in the restaurant.

Our room in Sipilok Jungle resort

Although Sabah is known for the rainforest and the special eco systems, it is sadly enough also the country which has the highest rate of deforestation on earth. Borneo is losing 2, 5 hectare of rainforest per minute. Travelling by bus from East to West Sabah, we saw the endless palm oil plantations and logging is still going on. The unique eco system, being the home for the splendid wildlife, is in serious danger.

Gardens of Sipilok Jungle resort

We visit the Sepilok Orang Utan rehabilitation centre, one of the only 4 centres in the world. Orphaned and injured orang-utans are brought to Sepilok to be rehabilitated to return to forest life. In the centre they feed the orang-utans but mind you it are still wild animals and they just come in when they want. Luckily we were fortuned to see a couple and knowing that the orang-utan is the ape closest to humans, it is quite fascinating.

Around the corner is the rainforest discovery centre were high walkways give you a bird eye view of the green rooftops of the trees. The park is filled with educational displays about the flora and fauna.

To have an experience with the wildlife “in their natural environment” we went on a boat tour on the Kinabatangan River a 560 km long river with chocolate brown water. Of course a tourist trap and with 5 boats all cruising the river, I wasn’t expecting any wildlife, but we saw a few. Proboscis monkeys, hornbills and kingfishers.

Hornbill

Proboscis

Sunset on Kinabatangan river

The last part of our travels over land is the bus trip from Sepilok to Tawau. Our last city in Sabah and we stayed in Hotel Shervinton, a close copy of the Sheraton. Only the price was just € 30, - per night, the styling just a little off and because of the Muslim regulations we had to drink our beer on the roof terrace.

Food vendors in the bus

There are not a lot special things in Tawau other than decent food and good hotels. We checked out the city and enjoyed the hawker centre for cheap fantastic food. On every corner of the street is a shopping mall (as in Europe, sales everywhere) and numerous Mosques.