Part 2, Sabah the gateway to sailing & diving

It is time to leave the land and go back to sea again. That is the main drive of our trip and after 3 months travelling we are ready to change our landlubber status to a sailor’s life.

Boat trip to Mabul

A fast local speedboat taxi brings us from Semporna to Mabul. The driver first picked up his wife for the ride and his little nephew was already onboard as look out for corals. Infinity was lying at anchor just outside the island Mabul.  Infinity is a 120 ft ketch, Ferro cement hull and on the aft deck a set up for diving. She does sailing/ diving adventures in Asia and the Pacific and projects in sustainably. Check out the website: www.infinityexpeditions.org

Pick up the wife

Infinity at anchor

The guest crew, total around 15, are mainly backpackers and joined the boat for the diving. Also a couple of permanent crew to run the boat and the owner Clemens and his family. We joined for 3 weeks as guest crew. We all have our jobs and tasks onboard which differ every day. From cleaning to cooking to washing up and scraping the hull. During sailing we have watch duties as look out and helmsman. When we are at anchor you have an hour watch in the night to make sure we don’t drift and to prevent strangers coming onboard.

One of our first
 jobs is to scrape
 the hull. Billy and
 I are on the case
 in full diving suit
 with  scrapers and
 gloves; we do an 
hour at the time
 and clean the
 underwater ship
 from shells and 
other little creatures.

We visit the island of Mabul, where the locals just live in huts made from materials they found on the beach. They run little shops with goodies as beer, snacks and phone cards. Always a good stock up for sailors. We enjoy the beauty of the most wonderful sunsets, which you only see out on the ocean.

Locals on the island Mabul

Sunset on Mabul

Dive crew of Infinity

Semporna is the archipelago where the colour blue is the most important. From deep dark blue to aqua and turquoise. No one is really interested in the islands, white beaches and palm trees, but the more in the ocean and everything beneath it. It is first and foremost a diving destination, one of the best in the world. Here we are, sailing on “Infinity”, who is going to visit these fantastic dive sites and we will see the most fabulous underwater world with fluttering coral, turtles, nudibranchs, and schools of colourful tropical fish.

Diver Charlotte, everything OK

 

We visited several famous dive sites on the east coast; the islands Mabul, Kapalai, Pulau Si Amil and Pulau Mantabuan. Most special experience for me was swimming with the turtles and the amazing wall dives where you just have a wall with gorgeous coral and lots of tropical fish. 




Challenging deep sometimes, although as a beginning diver I stopped at 30 meters depth . Visibility is fantastic and colours are amazing. I agree with all the tourist guides; this is dive spot nr 1.

We anchored at the island Kapalai, what is in reality a dive resort build on a sandbank. Wonderful romantic little huts on stilts with a view over the turquoise ocean. The dive resort has built an underwater village, with structures of houses. It is a very interesting dive spot, seeing lots of fish ea. bump head wrasse, moray eel (with big teeth).

Resort island Kapalai

Billy the cook of today with a big grouper

Cooking on a boat is always a challenge. First of all, you check which fresh ingredients have  to be used before they start rotting and that determines your dish. Second the stove is oil heated  and with already temperatures over 30oC outside, this is a real sweaty business. And last of the challenges is to cook for 20 people including vegans and vegetarians. The good thing is that we could stock up on the local markets, so enough fresh fruits & veggies and Matt the engineer is a spear fisher and he brings onboard the most beautiful big fish. Billy pulled a grouper out of the freezer and cooked it beautiful over a BBQ fire which we had on the beach of Pulau Si Amil.

There is not a lot of wind in this part of the world and sailing  between the islands we mainly motored or motor sailed. We miss the breeze anyway because it is sometimes really humid and hot and only swimming is a short  cool down. In our cabins we have little fans circulating the warm air. Now and then I was really dreaming of escaping the heat and being back in the Netherlands for summer sailing with a fresh breeze and always a fleece sweater needed.

 

Infiinity at anchor at Pulau Gaya

At the island Pulau Bohaydulong we go ashore to hike the highest mountain peak. We start in the early morning to climb to the 600 m top of the hill. A workout over a muddy slippery path with as reward the breath taking view of the lagoon.

Hiking team of Infinity

On the top of the hill of Pulau Bohaydulong

The view of the lagoon

Kevin

Life onboard the Infinity is like living in a big family. The age from the crew varies from 3 months to over 60. People from all parts of the world and some onboard for just a couple of weeks and other without a planned end date. Between the dives, we do our jobs and play; the guitar, baby fun and poker.

Kevin & Robert

Sage & Cloe

Pulau Mantabuan

The last island we visit is Pulau Mantabuan. 

A bounty island with palm trees and white sandy beaches. It is a paradise and diving here is likeswimming in a garden of corals. Sunset gives us the most brilliant orange colours and vibrant skies.

 

 

We set sail for the Philippines, what will take us around 3 days. With the very light wind conditions we can sail now and then, speed around 5 knots. Billy and I were lucky that on our early morning watch at 6 we always had wind, which would die down around 8 in the morning.

 

 

We stop for swims in the becalmed ocean and for a dive at the atoll Sandy Island. Amazing to dive a spot in the middle of the ocean. Another thrilling wall dive!

Picture will not turn the right way but this what you see out at sea !!

Tanya, Sage & Charlotte

Our port of entry is Iloilo. A small city where immigration is a lot easier than in the other port of entry Cebu. Clemens the skipper is able to clear us all in the country within a couple of hours. For us this is the end of our trip on the “Infinity”. We have a crew night in Iloilo as farewell party with a “couple” of beers and dancing and singing with the locals.
Bye bye Infinity & crew, hope to join you again one day for
more exciting diving adventures!

We have another sailing adventure in the Philippines. By ferry on the night sail from Iloilo to Cebu. Interesting way of transport, with cargo and locals and we were lucky instead of sleeping in the bunk beds on deck, to have the presidential suite for the price of only € 30,-

Arrival in Cebu

We stayed a couple of nights in Cebu, where we mainly soaked up internet, long showers and nice sleep in a wonderful hotel named “Henry” , a funky design hotel (could match with European standards). The city itself wasn’t  our first interest, especially not after finding a splendid Italian restaurant on the corner and have a change from Asian cuisine to very tasty pasta’s, risotto’s and ice-cream.

We are travelling the coming days to get to our new sailing gigs. Next blog more sailing adventures and of course surprises.

Ahoy Charlotte

Part 1 :Sabah, the gateway to jungle, sailing & diving. Jungle & cities April/ May 2013

Sabah, part 1  jungle & cities      April 2013

Joining the sailing ketch “Infinity” was still two weeks away and flying to the east coast of Sabah was too expensive, so why not a little discovery tour of Sabah, starting on the west coast in Kota Kinabalu and travel overland by bus to the east coast to Semporna, where we join the boat.

Why go to Sabah? Because it is one of the most stunning places on earth. A land of green jungle, craggy blue mountains and shocking blue oceans. We really had to study Google earth to figure out where Sabah is. It is the north of the island Borneo and is part of Malaysia.

http://www.google.co.ck/imgres?imgurl=http://mappery.com/maps/Sabah-Map.jpg&imgrefurl=http://mappery.com/map-of/Sabah-Map&usg=__t0reglJ7E2b02ozMCkLWMnlCKx0=&h=1214&w=1748&sz=297&hl=nl&start=1&zoom

Kota Kinabalu harbour

We flew to Kota Kinabalu, every calls it KK, an Asian messy city where the main smell is from sewage, mixed with spicy whiffs from all the food stalls. Our first encounter with non organised city life. For the KK citizens; the street is their shop, home and restaurant.

Fish drying in the sun

Textile production on the street

Durian, verry smelly fruit

After we had shaken off the clean and crisp memories of Singapore, 













we were ready to soak up the markets in KK; fish market with dried and salted fish, fruit and veggie market and the fashion industry on the street. A harbour city with fantastic seafood, prepared to your desire. 

You like it or not !

The $ 100,- fake version

Of course everything is cheap. A 4 star hotel for € 35, - (with indeed a bed with nice fluffy mattress, air co and clean) a dinner on the street for € 5, - and even a Galaxy III phone for € 100, - Billy was all flabbergasted by the idea and did an evening intensive study on the internet to recognise the fake ones and of course the street vendors sell fake. Later he found a “real” one in a shopping centre for half the European price. A must have!

But it is also the land of the head hunters, where the brave warriors would take the heads of their enemies and the skulls were strung up on the longhouse. A longhouse with many heads was feared and respected by neighbourhood clans. We went to Monsopiad to see the evidence of one of the last warriors.

Traditional pipe blowing

As history tells, 300 years ago the warrior named Monsopiad, was defended his village. So great was his power that no enemy could match him. Throughout his life, Monsopiad took 42 skulls as proof of his power. The skulls and the longhouse are looked after by his descendents. They try to keep the Kadazan culture alive and to reassemble and document the old legends and traditions for future generations.

And the swords

The 42 skulls

Traditional dancing

Tourist picture 1

Travelling means also being a little adventuress. We go rafting on the Padas River, a class III/IV river with lots of rapids, whirlpools and fast running (brown) water. A little nervous we join the taxi bus at 6 in the morning, finding 3 other adventurers still half asleep. Fit agile youngsters who climbed the Mt Kinabalu the days before. No way back so better enjoy the journey and stay relaxed. After 2 hours driving we change to an old diesel train in Beaufort. 





An experience in itself, travelling on an antique train with the locals and their kids, chickens, vegetables and any other stuff they bought at the market. We travel through the country side, where life seems very laid back and simple. The train is the only connection for these people, because there are no roads.

We travel along 
the Padas River 
which seems to 
become more and more wild getting closer to our destination. 
Seeing a couple of Chinese girls freaking out at watching the river, made me thinking “I can do this, as a sailor and rower, it shouldn’t be a problem”. 






Geared up with life jackets and helmets and an experienced guide, we push the rubber boat in the water. The only thing we have to do is peddle and keep the boat in balance. No time to think water everywhere and just paddle and survive. A fantastic experience and definitely it boosted my adrenaline level.

We leave Kota Kinabalu by bus, bringing us in 6 hours to Sipilok, the eastern side of Sabah and close to Sandakan. It is a nice travel crossing the area of Mount Kinabalu , with the high mountain peaks and the endless palm oil fields in the east. Busses are perfect, with food & beverage stops on the way. The only thing you must know is to bring a jacket and hat because the air co is on full blast and icy cold.

Mount Kinabalu

Our stay in the Sipilok jungle resort is more than pleasant. The jungle is in your backyard and an impressive tropical garden surrounds the rooms. All created 20 years ago by the Chinese owner, who although he is retired, is still watching his business every day from his corner table in the restaurant.

Our room in Sipilok Jungle resort

Although Sabah is known for the rainforest and the special eco systems, it is sadly enough also the country which has the highest rate of deforestation on earth. Borneo is losing 2, 5 hectare of rainforest per minute. Travelling by bus from East to West Sabah, we saw the endless palm oil plantations and logging is still going on. The unique eco system, being the home for the splendid wildlife, is in serious danger.

Gardens of Sipilok Jungle resort

We visit the Sepilok Orang Utan rehabilitation centre, one of the only 4 centres in the world. Orphaned and injured orang-utans are brought to Sepilok to be rehabilitated to return to forest life. In the centre they feed the orang-utans but mind you it are still wild animals and they just come in when they want. Luckily we were fortuned to see a couple and knowing that the orang-utan is the ape closest to humans, it is quite fascinating.

Around the corner is the rainforest discovery centre were high walkways give you a bird eye view of the green rooftops of the trees. The park is filled with educational displays about the flora and fauna.

To have an experience with the wildlife “in their natural environment” we went on a boat tour on the Kinabatangan River a 560 km long river with chocolate brown water. Of course a tourist trap and with 5 boats all cruising the river, I wasn’t expecting any wildlife, but we saw a few. Proboscis monkeys, hornbills and kingfishers.

Hornbill

Proboscis

Sunset on Kinabatangan river

The last part of our travels over land is the bus trip from Sepilok to Tawau. Our last city in Sabah and we stayed in Hotel Shervinton, a close copy of the Sheraton. Only the price was just € 30, - per night, the styling just a little off and because of the Muslim regulations we had to drink our beer on the roof terrace.

Food vendors in the bus

There are not a lot special things in Tawau other than decent food and good hotels. We checked out the city and enjoyed the hawker centre for cheap fantastic food. On every corner of the street is a shopping mall (as in Europe, sales everywhere) and numerous Mosques.

A taxi ride to Semporna and a speed boat trip to Mabul are the last travels to join the sailing yacht “Infinity”.

Ahoy Charlotte